NEW BREAK IN METHOD

[Roy leigh]

You will need:

1 new motor, or several if you like.
1 full tank of fuel, 125cc or 150cc depending on buggy truggy (not sure on gt tank size but just fill it up)
1 500cc bottle of fuel, 2 bottle fulls if the motor has a ridiculous amount of pinch.
1 glow igniter
1 fully charged receiver pack
1 fully charged tx pack
1 set of ear plugs
1 set-up starter box
1 temp gun
1 really hot hair dryer

1. Install new motor into car with clutch set up and set mesh.
2. set car onto starter box with no wheels, just hubs (to avoid fly aways), put on ear plugs.
3. after heating motor with hair dryer to over 200c start motor
4. slowly open carb with trigger at the same time richening (counter clockwise) the hsn to keep wheels from spinning
5. when carb is all the way open, keep richening needle until wheels stop but motor continues to run, very very rich.
6. check temp
7. lean HSN 1-1.5 full turns to get temperatures to start to go up
8. when the temperature of the motor reaches 180 degrees richen mixture 1-1.5 turns (equal to the amount you leaned to get temps up)
9. while temperature is dropping, top off tank. check temps until they read 120. after you refuel the rpm's may lower and cut off motor, to avoid this open fuel tank a bit to let it regulate pressure again.
10. repeat step 7 until temperature reaches 190 this time, then go to step 8 and 9.
11. repeat step 7 until temperature reaches 200 this time, then go to step 8 and 9.
12. repeat step 7 until temperature reaches 210 this time, then go to step 8 and 9.
13. repeat step 7 until temperature reaches 220 this time, then go to step 8 and 9.
14. repeat step 7-9 stopping at 220 degrees until tank and bottle are empty.
15. let go of trigger and massage hand, you've just been holding the car at wot for the last 20 or so minutes, it may be tired.
16. motor is ready to be track tuned, maximum performance is still a gallon away but the initial break-in of motor is now complete.


the car never comes off the box, the temp gun never leaves your side, the radio never leaves your hand and in less than 30 minutes your motor is ready to race and will turn over on the starter box. good luck. at the end of the last tank you can lean out the hsn till it runs clear at wot then richen it 1/4 turn and start to tune for track from there.

here is a video of the rich cycle of this break-in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAhO3ohjT2Y


any one ever heard of this method ?

[huw4027]

Never.......but trust me there are many break in methods out there but it always suits you to follow the
manufacturers guidelines for the particular engine.

[Roy leigh]

o ok, but i like this one because u have ur engine broken in in half an hour

[pelico]

Quickest isn't always best...you get the most out of ur engine when u take ur time.

[Roy leigh]

o yea thast true. the person that uses this methods name is adam drake he is the driver for team losi. so he probly has a drawer full of new engines

[huw4027]

o yea thast true. the person that uses this methods name is adam drake he is the driver for team losi. so he probly has a drawer full of new engines

That's for sure.

[dougday]

I use a similar method for breakin.

Run it rich at WOT , get the temps up to 165-185 F for one tank and then allow to cool ensuring that the piston is at BDC.

Do this twice for the Red dot and P9 engines (picco engines), then run 1 tank on the track then race tune.

For Novarossi based engines, I do 3 tanks at WOT with a cool down period in between, then 3 tanks on the track before race tuning.

The Mova engines require a lot more bedding in while the Piccos are bedded from the factory (just design difference really)

A lot of people idle their engines on a box without bringing up the temperatures close enough to operating temp. This is the worst thing you could possibly do as you end up wearing out the engine as the parts do not get to their designed expansion. Most engines run between 190 to 270 deg F. If you break them in at 120 deg, they will not break in until you get close to the manufactured temperature ratings. In the meantime they are running the engines rich with non atomised fuel going through the engine, resulting in a significant load on the conrod. This will lead to premature failure.

Most manufacturers post accurate methods for breakin procedures, but there are a few who choose to recommend methods that are quite unusual, however they usually cater for the newbies who know very little about RC and engines. The manufacturer then uses a technique which creates less risk to the newbie blowing his engine. If you run WOT as a newbie and do not understand how to use a temp and needle settings, you will cook the engine.

Leave breaking in to experienced people or just try to bring the temp up to about 170 deg and maintain it there for a few tanks on the bench, then do the same on the track making sure that you are making good smoke for a few tanks, leaning it in small increments (1/8th of a turn) after each tank(the actual amount of turns is really dependent on where your temp reading is at). Of course you need to try maintaining that temp without exceeding 200 deg during the process by adjusting the needles. This is probably the safest way to do it for a newbie.